Memoria

Memory ebbs and flows with the waves.

A moment captured on the beach,
translated into form,
and brought back to life by the sea.

Nicky Conti in the distance on Coney Island Beach, wearing the Memoria couture piece and moving a long scarf as a wave rises behind her
Nicky Conti in the distance on Coney Island Beach, wearing the Memoria couture piece and moving a long scarf as a wave rises behind her
Nicky Conti walking along the shoreline at Coney Island Beach wearing the Memoria couture dress looking out toward the water

Memoria reflects

the quiet

strength of

returning —

where memory

connects who we

were with who

we are becoming.

Close-up of Nicky Conti wearing the Memoria couture piece, looking toward the sea on Coney Island Beach
Side view of Nicky Conti wearing the Memoria sleeveless full length couture dress with a shoreline print, the fabric wrapped with a long scarf on Coney Island Beach
Distant view of Nicky Conti walking along the shoreline at Coney Island Beach, photographed from the pier where the original image was captured

Memoria

The Sea Remembers What We Leave Behind

Unlike the bridges, the towers, the spirals,
the sea does not rise.
It opens.

One reason I chose New York was because it touches water.
Not the Mediterranean of my childhood, but enough ocean to quiet a homesick body.

Coney Island became my refuge.
When Manhattan felt relentless, I would go where the skyline dissolves into the horizon.
There, the city loosens its grip.
There, ambition softens.

I did not cross the Atlantic by ship.
But I crossed it all the same.

Sometimes I sit before the water and wonder:
Did I do the right thing?
Did I mistake distance for destiny?

The ocean never answers.
It only moves.

And in its movement, I remember.

I walk the boardwalk between Brighton and Coney Island, breathing salt into my lungs.
On the pier, fishermen stand in patient silence. Below, children run toward waves and retreat shrieking with joy.

Through my lens, I captured a boy mid-leap, skin glistening, shadow stretched behind him. He jumped just as the wave reached for his legs.

In that instant, I saw myself,  the girl I was before I understood what it meant to leave.

That photograph became Memoria.

The dress falls long and strapless, cut to move like a tide against skin. Seven panels wrap the shoreline around my body so sea and sand do not fracture at the seams. The surfline falls asymmetrically, like a wave collapsing over sand. Its edges were cut and hand-finished to fray softly, foam dissolving into shore.

Cotton lifts the printed surf into texture. Foam extends beyond the edge of the dress and onto my bare chest.

The boy appears at my chest. His shadow travels along my side.

The day came to embody Memoria.
We arrived at the beach at 7am, before the crowds.
Makeup done in the open booth of the car, wind already in my curls.

When I stepped barefoot onto the sand, something shifted.
The sea did not feel distant, it felt familiar. It filled me.

At first I walked slowly along the shoreline.
A seven-foot white chiffon scarf wrapped around my neck trailed behind me. I lifted it into the wind and it rose, weightless, translucent, like wings remembering how to open.

Then I felt the pull of the water and ran toward it. I teased the small waves, lifting the hem of the dress, laughing as they chased my feet.

For a moment, I was no longer the woman who had crossed an ocean.
I was simply a girl running toward it.he outer garment to form its skeletal framework, anchoring its shell through snaps and hidden stitching. A single armhole opens like an architectural void, a negative space through which the body emerges, stabilizing the structure as it tightens around the upper arm.

From paper,
to stitching the shoreline into form,
to moving with it by the sea.

Estelle Chatorrier and Sarah Esmoingt reviewing a doll-sized paper prototype of the Memoria dress during development
Sketch of the Memoria dress design inspired by a photograph of the Coney Island shoreline
Sarah Esmoingt selecting thread colors using a sample print of the shoreline photograph on poly crepe fabric for the Memoria dress
Nicky Conti during a fitting, smiling and turning to view the Memoria dress in the mirror